Fraction-to-Decimal Inch Converter
Enter any fractional inch โ get decimal inches and millimeters instantly.
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Why Fraction-to-Decimal Conversion Is the Most-Googled Thing in a Machine Shop
Ask any machinist what they do a dozen times a day and somewhere near the top of the list โ right behind "check my micrometer zero" โ is converting a fractional dimension off a drawing into the decimal that actually means something to a CNC controller or a digital caliper. That number on the blueprint that says 11/16" means nothing to a machine that thinks in decimals. And that measurement your caliper just read as 0.4375" is completely opaque until you realize it's simply 7/16". These two worlds โ the fractional world of imperial tape measures and traditional drawings, and the decimal world of precision instruments โ exist side by side in every trade shop, every woodworking studio, and every garage where serious fabrication happens.
The reason fractional inches persist is deeply practical. A tape measure marked in 1/16" or 1/32" increments is fast to read. You glance at a board and call it "three-quarters of an inch" without doing any mental arithmetic. Your brain can parse 3/4 visually from a tape measure tick with almost no effort. But the moment you need to subtract two measurements, drill to a tolerance, or program a lathe, fractions become an obstacle. You cannot subtract 5/16 from 7/8 in your head under pressure without making mistakes. 0.875 minus 0.3125, though โ that's just arithmetic.
The Inch Fractions Machinists Actually Use
Not all fractional denominators appear equally in practice. The standard tape measure goes to 1/16" on most graduations, with finer tapes showing 1/32" and the very fine ones reaching 1/64". In machining, however, the 64ths table is the one that matters most โ it covers every fraction you'll encounter down to about 0.4mm resolution, which is fine enough for most non-precision work.
The fractions that come up most in woodworking are the "round" ones that live on a framing square or speed square: 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, 1/8, 3/8, 5/8, 7/8. These are the kind of measurements a carpenter can eyeball. Metalworking draws from a wider set: 3/16, 5/32, 11/32, and the odd 64ths that show up in drill bit sizing and thread specifications. Drill bit sets sold in the US are almost always sized in 64ths, which is why knowing that a 29/64" drill is 0.453125" matters when you're close-fitting a hole for a shaft.
The millimeter side of this conversion is relevant far beyond just metric countries. Any shop that deals with imported hardware, European machinery, or ISO fasteners will flip between mm and fractional inches constantly. A metric M8 bolt has a 1.25mm thread pitch โ you can't think about that meaningfully in fractions of an inch without the conversion. And when you're fitting a metric shaft into an inch-spec housing, the gap between 0.625" (5/8") and 16mm is a real engineering consideration (16mm = 0.6299", which is about 0.005" smaller).
How the Math Actually Works
The conversion itself is dead simple: divide the numerator by the denominator. That's it. 11 divided by 16 = 0.6875. Then multiply by 25.4 to get millimeters, because there are exactly 25.4 millimeters in one inch โ this is not an approximation, it's a defined relationship since 1959. So 11/16" = 0.6875" = 0.6875 ร 25.4 = 17.4625mm.
What trips people up is the whole-inch part. A dimension might be 2-11/16", which is 2 plus 11/16 = 2.6875 inches = 68.2625mm. When you're reading a tape measure that shows 2" and then seven marks past the 5/8" mark, you're reading 2 and 11/16. The whole-inch portion just adds directly to the decimal fraction portion.
The other thing worth knowing is how to reverse the process โ going from a decimal back to the nearest useful fraction. If your caliper reads 0.734", you want to know what fraction that's close to. The closest 64th is 47/64 = 0.734375", which is only 0.0004" off. For most work that rounds to 3/4" (0.750") or 47/64" depending on how tight your tolerance is. The reference table in this converter helps with exactly that โ find the decimal closest to your measurement and read off the fraction.
Where Tolerance Matters โ and Where It Doesn't
In rough carpentry, being within 1/16" (0.0625") is perfectly fine. A door frame, a stud wall, a deck board โ these tolerate that kind of variation easily. But in finish woodworking, especially joinery, you're aiming for 1/32" (0.03125") or better. In metalworking, general-purpose work might spec tolerances in ยฑ0.010" to ยฑ0.005". Precision machining often requires ยฑ0.001" or tighter, and at that level, fractions are essentially useless as a communication tool โ everything lives in decimals or the metric equivalent.
This is why understanding both systems fluently is a professional marker. A machinist who can mentally convert common fractions โ and knows that 0.375 is 3/8, that 0.250 is 1/4, that 0.0625 is 1/16 โ can read a mixed drawing without reaching for a calculator every minute. The most important ones to memorize are the halves, quarters, eighths, and sixteenths. Everything else you look up.
Real-World Scenarios This Saves You From
Consider a woodworker fitting a shelf dado. The shelf stock measures 0.734" on the caliper โ not a clean fraction. The closest common router bit size is 3/4" (0.750"), which would give a sloppy fit. The next smaller standard is 23/32" = 0.71875", too tight. So the woodworker needs to set the router depth carefully and shim or fit to actual measurement, not to a "named" fraction. Knowing the decimal equivalent precisely is what allows that kind of nuanced decision.
Or picture a welder reading a structural drawing that calls for a 5/16" fillet weld. The welding gauge they're using reads in decimals. 5/16 = 0.3125" โ they need that number to verify the gauge reading. Same situation with sheet metal thickness: 18-gauge steel is 0.0478" thick, which is close to 3/64" but not exactly. The spec is written in gauge, the measurement tool reads decimal inches, and the drawing reference might show a fraction. All three systems in one shop, on one part.
The Lookup Table Is Half the Value
One reason a fraction-to-decimal reference table exists as a physical card in virtually every machine shop is that conversions come up faster than you can type them. A laminated card taped to the mill or the bandsaw gets consulted dozens of times in a shift. The digital equivalent โ a quick search or a tool like this one โ replaces that card when you're at a desk or on a phone. The value of having all 64 fractions from 1/64 to 64/64 in front of you at once is that you can scan for your value and its neighbors, which tells you instantly where you land in relation to the nearest "clean" fractions and what margin you're working with.
That context โ not just the one number, but its neighborhood โ is what separates a useful reference from a bare calculator. If your measurement is 0.687", knowing it's almost exactly 11/16" (0.6875") but 0.0005" under tells you something practical. If you only see 0.6875 and 17.4625mm, that context is missing.
The fraction-to-decimal relationship is one of those permanent, foundational pieces of trade knowledge that doesn't go away no matter how much technology surrounds it. CNC machines, laser cutters, and coordinate measuring machines all run in decimals. But the humans feeding those machines, reading drawings, setting up work, and inspecting parts still live partly in the world of fractional inches โ because that's what was handed down, and because for quick layout work, it's still genuinely faster.